As the UK food-to-go market continues to be dominated by the likes of Greggs and McDonald’s, it is both refreshing and inspirational to discover that traditional bakeries are still proving humbly and modestly. With bakeries ready to rise and reflect the cultural heritage of their home cities, is the consumer ready to chew off a piece?
Laurel Kratochvila, baker and owner of Fine Bagels, one of the most popular bakeries in Berlin, reveals that it’s more than possible for the customer to get on board with the combination of tradition and modern trends. Her latest book, New European Baking, is a masterpiece. A stunning and unassuming rejection of the faceless fast-food frenzy of the twenty-first century.
From breads to brioche and from tarts to toppings, Laurel shows that some of the world’s best loved bakes originate from Europe and can be easily reproduced in the comfort of your own home. Divided into five chapters, you are taken through all of the vital foundations of bakery: Breads, Brioches and Enriched Doughs, Laminated Pastries and Viennoiseries, Tartes and Biscuits.
With recipes in New European Baking including Roasted Apricot Turnovers, Challah Crossoints, Fine Sourdough Bagels, and Asparagus Manchego Twists, there really is a bake for everyone.
The stand-out success to Laurel’s New European Baking is the attention to detailing the history of the recipes. What usually lacks in a home cooking book is the narrative behind generational flavours and method. But, take the recipe for Kasha Loaf, its Central Asian origin is revealed, as well as how exactly it is served in Jewish homes today.
Expect to find lots of references to Jewish history, bakers and their methods throughout as Laurel specialises in Jewish breads and pastries. She has given talks throughout Europe about Jewish foodaways and baking history, and ia even a food consultant practising recipe and food styling (most recently for the hit Netflix series Unorthodox)! This, for me, elevated the personal and distinct tone of this particular home-baking book.
Completing the modern and elegant style, with a friendly flare, are the visually stunning photographs throughout. Taken by food journalist and Vogue photographer Malgosia Minta, the photos are sophisticated and captivating to view. They also introduce us to eleven interspersed European bakers with such finesse, a style that could easily be seen in a gallery. These profiles encapsulate part travelogue and part origin stories of the modern baker in Europe. Each bakery has a different story of bakery ethics, creativity and cultural heritage, from PezZ de Pane, Italy to Lille Bakery in Copenhagen, Denmark.
For a true taste of twenty-first century flavours, take a look inside New European Baking here.
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