Eòrna and Skua
A handful of Edinburgh’s more energetic young chefs have unveiled ambitious plans for the next few weeks. On Hamilton Place, chef Brian Grigor and sommelier Glen Montgomery are working to launch Eòrna. Named after the Gaelic for barley, the restaurant will feature a 12-cover countertop chef’s table overlooking the kitchen. Keeping staffing to a minimum, Grigor will man the kitchen singlehandedly and Glen is the full extent of the front of house team. As well as classic old world wines, diners can look forward to dishes such as hand-dived Orkney scallop, oyster leaf and burnt apple or loin of roe deer, salt baked celeriac and sauce grand veneur.
A stone’s throw away on St Stephen Street, Skua – it’s a seabird – is taking shape under the eye of chefs Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke. The duo already run Heron in Edinburgh’s Leith. Spot a theme developing? We reviewed Heron here. At the new place, the chefs will be aiming to offer small plates of, for example, koji-marinated chicken, soy and chilli glazed octopus and cider-infused maitake mushrooms. ‘Expect bold flavours, great tunes and generous hospitality,’ they tell us.
68 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh EH3 5AZ
49 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 5AH
Farlam Hall, a country house hotel and restaurant in Cumbria, has a new boss in the form of chef Hrishikesh Desai. Previously Head Chef at Gilpin Hotel and Lake House, Desai may be familiar from the final of the BBC’s Great British Menu in 2019 and 2020. This spring, the hotel’s restaurant will relaunch as Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai. Local produce, including fruit and veg from the hotel’s kitchen garden, will be to the fore. Expect dishes such as tandoori beef Wellington.
Farlam Hall Hallbankgate, Brampton CA8 2NG Tel 016977 46234
Having been the first chef to get a Michelin star for a Chinese restaurant in the UK at Hakkasan, Tong Chee Hwee is back in London with Gouqi. This new solo venture offers a tasting menu, à la carte option and the chef’s signature dishes. The latter include Peking duck with Oscietra caviar at a bank balance-shrinking £230 and slow cooked Wagyu with chef’s special sauce at a slightly more easy to swallow £115. Not that every dish will make the wallet wince. Dim sum such as the Iberico char siu bao are yours for £9.50. We like the sound of the Luan cocktail. Named after a mythical Chinese bird and an omen of peace, it blends banana and melon liqueurs with pisco and a mix of citrus before being topped with cream soda.
25-34 Cockspur St, London SW1Y 5BN Tel: 0203 771 8886
Gareth Ward has made his name with Ynyshir, his two Michelin star restaurant at Eglwys Fach in Wales. Starting at £350 per person, the thirty course menus served in the restaurant feature the best fish and meat from around the world cooked over fire. A DJ ensures that the atmosphere is more like a club than a traditional dining room.
This spring, the chef is expanding with a new wine bar, café and restaurant in Machynlleth. Named Gwen, after his mum, the space will operate as a wine and coffee shop during the day and wine bar in the evening serving cheese and charcuterie boards. A separate space at the back of the venue will become an 8-10 cover restaurant offering a ten course tasting menu similar to that at Ynyshir. The plan is to use the same ingredients as at the two star restaurant but at a price point which is more accessible to the local market.
21 Heol Maengwyn, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 8EB
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